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Now that we have screwed and glued the rail together, we will add the padding and the final surface to the rail.
I used foam as padding and fake leather to the utmost material. There should be a relatively strong type of foam
so it does not collapse too much when you put your arms on it. You can usually buy the foam in rolls.
I used a roll with the size of about 1m x 2m. I cut out the parts I needed from that.
It becomes a bit of puzzeling to get as large pices of foam as possible. Try to get the parts to be as large as possible.
The joints might be seen when everything is assembled if you are unlucky.
This was the first two parts of the padding
When I had the two big pieces in place, I cut out two smaller pieces that fitted as good as possible.
To get the pieces to stay together, you can use fabric adhesive to glue them together.
This is how it looks when all the pices are in place.
Lay out the "skin" upside down and then put the boards upside down above the skin (ie foam is down onto the skin and that you have the sawn rail at the top.
Cut out the inner part of the skin so that it is about 5-10 cm ob both inside and outside the Rail. (see picture below)
Now, the skin are to be tightened and attached to the frame. Staple the fake leather on the rail. From the outer side so the skin attached at the narrow rim piece,
that is at the top of the two rail parts. When you attach the inner side of the fake leather, it shall be affixed to the bottom (wider) part of the two rail parts.
Tighten the skin so that it push down the faom alittle. Also notice that fake leather is a little bit elastic, which makes it a little easier. Sample strech the skin and feel with
your hand how the rail should feel be before you attach the skin all around the rail. If you do not thighten the skin it will not look or feel that good, and the leather will
be differently "tight" against the foam.
Cut away excess skin after you have attached the skin around the rail.
This is how it looks when the rail is finaly assambled.
Move on to stage 5
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